Green Spain | Mysteries of Cantabria

Green Spain | Mysteries of Cantabria


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green spain
Photos: Christina Pfeiffer

I find myself standing in a dark chamber watching a documentary about how a young girl stumbled upon one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries. In 1879, the young daughter of a local nobleman Sanz de Sautuola, wandered into a remote section of what is now known as the Altamira caves and discovered the world’s oldest paintings, 14,000 year-old drawings that were done by the first humans on earth. This is one of several intriguing mysteries of green Spain.


Cantabria Spain

Altamira caves

We are led into another world, a dim cave, which is a replica of the original Altamira caves. Bones, tools and implements are set into the earth, an indication of the cave’s occupants.

Holograms of cave dwellers going about their daily routine provide an insight of life at the beginning of time. We wind our way into the cave to a section with a very low ceiling.


There, I look up, just like the young girl did in 1879 to find etchings of a herd of bison standing, crouching and running.

There is a reverent silence as everyone around me stares at these drawings on the Ceiling of the Polychrome Paintings in absolute wonderment.

The artworks predate even the art of the oriental civilizations of Egypt and Mesopotamia by almost 10,000 years.


Archaeological remains from the late Palaeolithic era are dotted throughout the Cantabrian landscape, Altamira being the most famous.

This replica of the original Altamira caves at the National Museum of Altamira is a tourist-friendly way of seeing the legacy left by the first human inhabitants of our planet.

The real cave was declared a World Heritage Site in 1985 and was closed to the public in order to preserve it for future generations.

Green Spain

Cantabria’s natural heritage of rolling green hills, gushing rivers, pristine beaches, mountains and valleys conjure images of times when large herds of bison must have charged through the land.

Since the discovery of these unique caves, a number of historic villages and seaside towns have turned into popular holiday destinations.

Santillana del Mar is a good place to base yourself when visiting the region.


In 1835, the Duke of Infantado gave up his family estate and the historic cobblestone streets of Santillana del Mar became a municipality.

Now, the ancient buildings hold museums, such as the Museum of Witchcraft and Superstition (Casona de los Tagle) and the Museum of Torture (Museo de la Tortura), bars and restaurants.

Barcelna Mayor

If Santillana del Mar is the epitome of medieval cobblestone perfection, then Barcelna Mayor, a village in the Cabuerniga valley, occupies the beginner’s end of the scale.

I find workmen busy hammering away at the rooftops.

A village walk reveals many old buildings in the midst of renovations as property buyers jump on the historical restoration bandwagon.


Barcelna Mayor still has a raw village charm with crumbly old buildings waiting their turn to be restored and a few souvenir shops selling baskets, wooden forks, plaques, fans, walking sticks and local cheese.

One of the main restaurants overlooks a bubbling brook, which I stroll past up to a local farm house set to a picturesque mountain backdrop.


At the village of Cabezon de la Sal, I discover the rambling country mansion hotel – El Jardin de Carrejo – which was rented by Nicole Kidman while she filmed the movie The Others.

An enthusiastic proprietor is eager to show off the bed that Nicole slept in. Expecting a lavish accommodation, I find a room that is simply but elegantly furnished opening out to a large deck with peaceful views of green rolling hills.


Another historic town along the Cantabrian coast is aristocratic Comillas which was built on undulating hills sheltering a secluded harbour.

I walk through the old square admiring the traditional eighteenth-century architecture.

For such a small town, there are some remarkably flamboyant buildings built by fisherman’s son Antonio López y López, founder of shipping company La Trasatlántica.

Having made his fortune in the West Indies, he was bestowed the title of the first Marquis of Comillas.

Among his achievements as Marquis was to install Spain’s first public street lighting at Comillas.

Santillana del Mar

His main home, the Neo-Gothic Palacio de Soberillano, later became the summer residence of the Spanish royal family.

Around the corner, visitors and residents dine in a seafood restaurant set within the tiled storybook palace of “El Capricho”, an architecturally unusual creation designed by the internationally acclaimed architect Antonio Gaudi.

Santillana del Mar


The day I arrive in the region’s current capital of Santander, the seaside town is abuzz with excitement of the visit of the King of Spain.

I stroll along the main boardwalk at El Sardinero, which was once a fashionable bathing resort and summer residence of the Spanish royal family.

Seaside cafes swarm with people and the ocean is dotted with surfers. I choose a busy café and treat myself to a delicious Cantabrian seafood banquet.

Away from the ocean, Cantabrian dishes are a little more exotic, such as mountain stew cooked with pigs’ ribs, snout and feet.

Pigs feet are boiled in salt, packed in flour and egg, before being fried with a tasty sauce.

Santillana del Mar

As I soak in the view, I can’t help but wonder what this landscape will look like in the future and what gem the people of the future might discover among those green rolling hills.

I fall into a reverie staring at the sea while dreaming of cavemen.

Santillana del Mar

Christina Pfeiffer was a guest of the Spanish Tourism Board

Discover Spain

KLM flies to Madrid via Kuala Lumpur and Amsterdam. Santander is also easily accessible from major European capital cities. While in Spain, visit the beautiful beachside San Sebastian.


Parador de Santillana Gil Blas, Plaza Ramon Pelayo, 11, 39330, Santillana de Mar, Cantabria, tel: +34915166666.


See Spanish Tourism Board

Mysteries of Cantabria


  1. This is the best part of Spain if you are heritage site lover like me. I also heard about that 14000 years old painting but don’t the truth behind it. Thanks for sharing the story with us. The other thing I like about Spain is their food. It’s a great pleasure to enjoy the ocean with such dishes.

    • Agree with you @samantha@disqus_sCnirpZECk:disqus the food in Spain is pretty damn good. And that painting is worth making the journey for – just the thought of clapping eyes on something that old is mind boggling.

  2. Wow, just amazing views. I love the architecture of this place. It is so old and charming to see, I would have to see it with my own eyes.


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