Patagonia cruise – Stella Australis

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The sky changes from violet to black, as it swallows the Martial mountain range. At the start of our Patagonia cruise, Ushuaia’s lights are dots in the distance, as our ship, Stella Australis, cruises over Ushuaia Bay.

As we power towards the Beagle Channel, up on deck, I shiver but I’m not sure if it’s from the cool breeze or whether it’s because I’m excited about the adventure before us.

I know that we will encounter a white wonderland of mountains and glaciers and already there’s a nip in the air.

A Patagonia cruise takes us through two of the best countries in South America and I’m looking forward to seeing snow-covered peaks, glaciers, frozen lakes and icebergs on my cruise aboard Stella Australis.

A cruise also takes us to difficult-to-reach places where we get to see some of the most incredible Chilean landmarks and equally stunning landmarks in Argentina too.

Patagonia cruise
Our Patagonia cruise leaving Ushuaia.

Patagonia Cruise

full moon and mountains on our Patagonia cruise
Patagonia cruise scenery
hiking in punta arenas while on a Patagonia cruise
Awesome scenery on a Patagonia cruise.

Patagonia straddles both Argentina and Chile and is one of three places to visit in Chile that you will be impressed with.


It is a region that has breathtaking scenery and has been a popular destination for keen hikers for many years.

Fortunately, these days, Patagonia’s frozen beauty is much more accessible to the average traveller.

You can still camp out under the stars if you wish but there’s another way to access these remote areas.

For most people, the comfortable way to discover Patagonia is on a luxury small ship cruise such as aboard Stella Australis.

The ship – MV Stella Australis

The expedition-style ships journeys between Ushuaia and Punta Arenas Chile.

You can watch the scenery drift past aboard the 100-cabin ship.

It’s a luxurious way for adventurous travellers to see Chile’s southern attractions.

Cabins have large windows – some have floor-to-ceiling glass panels – that allow you to lie back in bed and drink in the landscape.

our cabin on Stella Australis
Cruising in comfort aboard Stella Australis

The ship has three lounges, a gym and a dining room.

The service is warm and friendly but somewhat disorganised.

There’s a buffet breakfast and lunch while dinner is a three-course meal.

Chilean and Argentinean wine is included in the price of the luxury cruise.

Spanish is the main language on board but the guides and service staff speak enough English well enough.

The only complaint I have is the reception desk staff are a touch aloof for a cruise of this quality.

Day 1 – MV Stella Australia zodiac excursions 

Twice a day, passengers are transferred ashore in Zodiacs.

These excursions are led by knowledgeable and friendly expedition guides who tell us about the region’s flora, fauna and history.

Patagonia cruise excursion
Disembarking for an excursion while on our Patagonia cruise,

At 7.30am on the first morning, I’m bundled up in a waterproof jacket and pants, thermals, hats, gloves and rubber boots.

The sky is grey as we board zodiacs and zip across to Hornos Island, where Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn) is a highlight of this luxury cruise.

In fact, a quick survey of fellow passengers tells me it’s the reason many on board have chosen this cruise.

luxury cruises stella
Stella Australia cruise offers adventure excursions in Patagonia.

Day 2 – Cape Horn and Navarino Island

Cape Horn was an important navigation point for ships before the Panama Canal was built.

Many consider it a badge of honour to sail around the cape as the sea is treacherous.

There are over 800 shipwrecks in the waters around the cape.

Patagonia cruise to cape horn
Cruising to Cape Horn is one of the highlights of our Patagonia cruise.

The weather can be so moody that rounding the cape or even being able to step ashore is not guaranteed. as it depends on the weather, which can be treacherous.

We’re very lucky on this occasion as it’s only drizzling. We’re transferred ashore and we climb 160 steps to the plateau.

Cape Horn

Cape Horn is a soaring rocky promontory that is part of Cape Horn National Park, a World Biosphere Reserve.

There’s not much there except for a lighthouse, a small chapel and the Cape Horn monument.

The monument is a steel albatross memorial.

We spend some time chatting to the island’s only inhabitants, the lighthouse keeper and his family.

And by 8.30 am, we’re back on board the ship for breakfast.

Navarino Island

In the afternoon, there’s a choice of activities between a hill hike or a coastal walk.

Navarino Island’s Wulaia Bay is the place where Charles Darwin landed while on his voyage on the H.M.S. Beagle in 1833.

Stunning snowcapped mountains in Patagonia
Hiking in Patagonia is a memorable activity on our Patagonia cruise aboard Stella Australia.

There’s a jetty outside a 1930’s naval radio station, where we disembark and begin our hike.

The old building was converted into an information centre.

We walk through the Magellanic forest, marvelling at the autumn colours of the nothofagus trees.

Some areas are muddy and slippery and there’s a steep section where there are ropes tied between trees that you can use as handrails.

hiking through the fields
Hiking through fields on our Patagonia cruise on Stella Australia.
a challenge on our Patagonia cruise on Stella Australia.
A challenging shore excursion on our Patagonia cruise on Stella Australia.

Our walk is a chance to stretch our legs and brush up on the flora.

We learn about the parasite fungi and the Calafate plant.

The latter is a shrub with tiny yellow flowers and dark fruit.

There are both abandoned beaver dams and active ones.

Beavers were imported from Canada over a century ago for the fur trade and have caused a huge amount of destruction in the forest.

But the climate was not ideal for beavers and the quality of fur was not good enough for the luxury market.

The beaver hunters lost interest and the beavers were allowed to multiply uncontrolled.

Day 3 – Alberto de Agostini National Park

On the third day, the sun is shining and storybook vistas of the Darwin Range fills the ship’s windows.

As we cruise, a knot-tying class with the boatswain is in full swing.

This activity is followed by a Chilean wine appreciation lesson with the ship’s sommelier.

I’m quite content to sip pisco sours while feasting my eyes on the scenery.

The snow-capped mountains and glaciers are soothing to the soul.

Agostini Sound is home to the Aguila Glacier, which stretches down towards a forest of olive-green treetops.

It’s a patch of paradise within Alberto de Agostini National Park where there are no roads and the only access is by ship.

a passenger discovers an iceberg washed ashore
A “wow” moment on a shore excursions during our Patagonia cruise on Stella Australia.

It’s a big blue sky day and cotton candy clouds brush the tips of the sugar-sprinkled mountains.

We walk along the lagoon, wide-eyed with wonder at the scenery.

Every so often, we come across a large chunk of ice that has washed aground.

From every angle, the enormity and beauty of the landscape fill me with awe.

Our final excursion while cruising aboard Stella Australis is a visit to Magdalena Island to see the imperial and rock shags and a colony of Magellanic penguins.

penguins in magdelena island
Penguins on Magdelena Island while on a Patagonia cruise on Stella Australia.

The pockmarked landscape is filled with burrows that the penguins return to between October and April.

When we arrive, the season is almost over and there are only a few hundred penguins left waddling across the moonscape.

The others have long gone on their annual migration to the north.

taking photos of the penguins on magdelena island
Patagonia cruise wildlife.

Stella Australis leaves from Ushuaia in Argentina and cruises to Chilean waters and around Cape Horn.

After disembarking at Punta Arenas, we travelled to Puerto Bories and stayed in a really cool boutique hotel that used to be a sheep processing factory.

Find out more about Singular Hotel Patagonia.

Stella Australia has four routes to explore Patagonia. Find out more about them here.

Patagonia cruise – Stella Australis

Patagonia cruise – Stella Australis

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Christina Pfeiffer
Christina Pfeiffer is a writer, photographer and video blogger based in Queensland, Australia. She has lived in three continents and her career as a travel journalist has taken her to all seven continents. Since 2003, she has contributed travel stories and photographs to mainstream media in Australia and around the world such as the Sydney Morning Herald, CNN Traveller, The Australian and the South China Morning Post. She has won many travel writing awards and is a full member of the Australian Society of Travel Writers.